Below you will find an intensive research done by Mr. Greg Lawton on the Karate Uniform. This was added for those students who wish to learn more about this topic.
What's in a Karate
Uniform?
Article by Greg Lawton
If you're going to be doing karate for a long time, a good
quality Gi is a good investment. However how do you define 'good
quality'? There are a surprising number of variables when
choosing a karate uniform which can affect whether if it right
for you. Most of them the average person probably won't think
twice about - there's nothing wrong with going to the nearest
sports shop, finding the right one for your height and wearing
it for a while to see how it feels, but if you want one to last
a while which you enjoy wearing, it's worth weighing a few
things up.
Terms
Gi, Karategi, Karatedogi or uniform may be used. The term 'Gi'
is less correct without a prefix but is used in generically in
this article as the preference for terminology varies. Dogi
refers to Gis in general and not necessarily those used
exclusively for karate.
Sizing
The most basic aspect of Gi sizing is the height in cm (used for
European Gis), though sizing is also dependent on weight and
other varying dimensions. Gis in Japan are given a number
instead of a height measurement; the numbers correspond to the
approximate heights shown in the table below. These numbers may
be important if ordering from a Japanese source. Note these
sizes also depend on the manufacturer and in some cases the cut!
When tournament cut Gis were purchased from some Japanese
manufacturers the quoted size was 1/2 to 1 sizes greater than
the traditional cut, e.g. a person of 180cm height might order a
size 5 in the traditional cut but a size 5.5 for the tournament
cut. This is now being phased out.
Care must also be taken because the Gi can shrink, particularly
after hot or repeated washing, and Gis from different
manufacturers shrink to different extents. It is common to buy a
slightly oversized Gi to allow for shrinkage. Shureido give the
size after shrinkage because they shrink the material themselves
to make sizing easier for the customer, although there may still
be a small percentage of additional shrinkage. It is worth
checking whether the manufacturer's size refers to pre- or post-
shrinkage for that particular Gi and whether anyone else you
know, or on the internet, can tell you what degree of shrinkage
to expect.
Here is a sample chart showing conversion between the Japanese
size and the corresponding approximate height of the individual.
Japanese Gi Size |
Height (cm) |
Approximate Height (Feet / Inches) |
000 |
110 |
3ft 7ins |
00 |
120 |
3ft 11ins |
0 |
130 |
4ft 3ins |
0.5 |
135 |
4ft 5ins |
1 |
140 |
4ft 7ins |
1.5 |
145 |
4ft 9ins |
2 |
150 |
4ft 11ins |
2.5 |
155 |
5ft 1ins |
3 |
160 |
5ft 3ins |
3.5 |
165 |
5ft 5ins |
4 |
170 |
5ft 7ins |
4.5 |
175 |
5ft 9ins |
5 |
180 |
5ft 11ins |
5.5 |
185 |
6ft 1ins |
6 |
190 |
6ft 3ins |
6.5 |
195 |
6ft 5ins |
7 |
200 |
6ft 7ins |
7.5 |
205 |
6ft 9ins |
8 |
210 |
6ft 11ins |
For those with non-standard body dimensions, jackets and pants
may be purchased separately. Many of the top manufacturers offer
size customization, with many different modifiable dimensions
which may be specified upon ordering. For the trousers you may
specify length, waist circumference, diameter / circumference at
the top and bottom of the leg and the distance between the top
of the pants and where they split to the legs. For the jacket
the height, length of the arms, length of the central part of
the jacket and the circumference / diameter of the arm piece
near the shoulder and wrists may be varied. Customization
obviously adds to the cost of the Gi.
Material
Cheaper Gis often use cheap polyester / cotton blends. More
expensive Gis are manufactured from traditional pure cotton
which is more likely to shrink in the wash and more likely to
crease than a cheap blended material but absorbs more sweat is
stiffer, holding away from the body so as to be more breathable.
Some Gis use brushed cotton for softness / comfort. There are
high-end polyester cotton blends such as the Shureido New-Wave
line of Gis designed to give the positive properties of both -
less need for ironing, less shrinkage, wicks away sweat as it is
absorbent and breathes well due to holding itself away from the
body.
Weight
The weight of a Gi is given in either in ounces or as a number
of the canvas 'numbered duck' (it is more common to use this in
Japan and will be encountered if ordering from a Japanese
manufacturer). 'Canvas' and 'duck' are often used
interchangeably; 'duck' is derived from the Dutch 'doek'
referring to a canvas used for sailors' clothing.
The use of ounces as a weight indicator stems from industry
weights given to duck cotton. It refers to the weight of the
cloth per square yard and does not indicate as much about the
quality of the material as the duck number. A 10 ounce canvas is
not the same as a #10 canvas. When the rating is given in ounces
it normally refers to 'single fill' canvas - single fibers used
in the threads of the horizontal axis of the weave, which are
thicker fibers than those used in a #10 canvas.
A Gi often has duck #10 or #11 (though in the industry #11 is
rarely used nowadays). To understand what the numbers mean
requires detailed explanation. If a piece of cloth measuring 36
inches x 22 inches weighs less than 19 ounces it is called
numbered duck. The duck number is calculated by subtracting the
weight of the 36 x 22 inch piece, in ounces, from 19. Hence the
numbers are inversely proportional to the weight - a heavier
piece of cloth has a lower number.
In addition to the weight of cloth per square yard, the numbers
are also indicative of the likely thread count of that piece of
material (more threads in the 'warp' or vertical axis of the
cloth and more threads in the 'fill' or horizontal axis of the
cloth). The thread count is the number of threads used per
square inch - higher numbered canvasses have a higher thread
count - more and finer threads per square inch which because the
threads are closer together, means you are less likely to feel
them against the skin - increasing the comfort, suppleness and
durability of the material. The greater thread count is achieved
by using finer fibers.
Finally the yarn count is also roughly indicated by the canvas
number. Yarn count in real terms is the number of threads
stretching 840 yards needed to give 1 English lb of weight. For
English cotton - if the yarn count is 1 then a thread strand
stretching 840 yards would be 1 lb in weight. If the yarn count
is 2 then two threads stretching 840 yards would be 1 lb in
weight - hence the threads / yarns must be finer; the higher the
number, the more fibers stretching 840 yards would be needed to
give 1lb weight.
It is an indicator of thickness of single threads. Higher yarn
counts indicate finer threads and fewer fibers wound together to
form a single thread. Higher canvas numbers have a higher yarn
count and thus use finer threads.
Yarn count is quoted as x/y.
X is a number which indicates how fine each fiber of the
material is, a higher number means a finer fiber was used.
Y is the number of individual fibers wound / plied together. 2
fibers plied together becomes a single yarn, the yarn would be
twice as thick but for 1 lb of the new yarn, you would only need
half the length.
Note that the first number, X, refers to the individual fibers
in the yarn and not the resultant plied yarn e.g. 100/2 is 2
fibers with yarn count 100 being plied together, resulting in a
thread with a 50 count.
Note also that the unit length (i.e. 840 yards for English
cotton) varies for different fibers and spinning systems.
So a higher number means a lighter garment per square yard, a
higher thread count and finer threads.
Duck Number |
Weight of a 36 x 22 inch Piece |
Weight / Sq. yard |
Example Standard Construction Thread / Sq. Inch |
Example Standard Construction Thread Size |
Examples of Uses of this Canvas with this Duck Number |
#12 |
7oz |
11.45oz |
44 x 32 |
10/2 x 10/2 |
Tote bags, artist canvas, draperies, laminations |
#11 |
8oz |
13.09oz |
|
|
Some karate Gis |
#10 |
9oz |
14.73oz |
42 x 28 |
7/2 x 7/2 |
Tote bags, luggage & similar applications, shoe uppers, military applications, shower curtains, some karate Gis |
#9 |
10oz |
16.36oz |
|
|
|
#8 |
11oz |
18.00oz |
36 x 23 |
7/3 x 8/3 |
Director's chair, duffle bags, golf bags, clothes bags |
#7 |
12oz |
19.64oz |
|
|
|
#6 |
13oz |
21.27oz |
36 x 26 |
7/3 x 7/3 |
Machine covers, gun covers, mail bags, boxing ring covers, horse blankets |
#5 |
14oz |
22.91oz |
|
|
|
#4 |
15oz |
24.54oz |
26 x 18 |
7/5 x 7/5 |
Cattle feed bags, tool bags, Saddle bags, military equipment covers, sea bags, large boat covers |
#3 |
16oz |
26.18oz |
|
|
|
#2 |
17oz |
27.82oz |
|
|
Hatch paulins |
#1 |
18oz |
29.45oz |
30 x 20 |
7/5 x 7/5 |
Transformer covers, farm equipment covers, hammocks, sand bags |
Sources:
http://www.nizamcanvas.com/fabrics/canvas1.htm
http://www.nizamcanvas.com/fabrics/canvasapplication.htm
http://www.sizes.com/materls/duck.htm
Lightweight Gis
Perhaps 6oz or 8oz, these are often the least expensive
(though not always - the type of material, design etc. also has
a bearing - for example the Shureido Mugen is a very lightweight
and thin Gi used for Kumite and is one the most expensive
uniforms of the Shureido brand. Note this Gi is available in
both traditional and tournament cut; the traditional cut is
named Mugen Fighter by some vendors but is the same Gi). It is
not uncommon to have a number of karate Gis and lightweight ones
are often chosen for Kumite competition for freedom of movement.
Other examples of lightweight high-quality Kumite Gis include
the Tokaido NST and the Hirota Pinack.
These will not last as long as heavier Gis, the rate of wear
being dependent on the amount and content of training -
particularly physical contact and grappling. They tear more
easily and wear thin from prolonged use.
In terms of warmth, the cheaper polyester / cotton blends which
soak up little sweat, and despite the lighter weight can leave
you feeling hot, uncomfortable (as the Gi sticks to the body)
and dripping with sweat. More expensive Gis are often pure
cotton or more advanced polyester / cotton blends which breathe
well (i.e. stay away from the body) and allow sweat to evaporate
quickly. On the positive side, they are easier to iron and more
resistant to creasing than pure cotton.
Cheaper lightweight uniforms are ideal for beginners or those
who are unsure how long they will continue with karate; the more
expensive ones are suitable for kumite competition.
Medium Weight Gis
Maybe 10oz or 12oz, these are more resistant to use than a
lightweight Gi and tend to last longer. Although if worn when
standing stationary they would be slightly warmer due to the
thicker material, when training they soak up more sweat and can
leave you feeling cooler. The Shureido NW-3 is an example of a
medium weight Gi but in terms of actual weight but sits on the
body like a heavyweight.
Heavyweight Gis
Maybe 14oz, 16oz or even higher, these are often marketed as
'Ultimate' karate uniforms (as an example) for the dedicated /
serious karateka. They are more expensive and this transparent
marketing trick is designed to appeal to vain karate students
who subconsciously or otherwise believe that the uniform will
make them perform better. That said, a good heavyweight Gi can
last a long time and is worth choosing carefully. They absorb a
lot of sweat and due to the stiffness of the cloth hold
themselves away from the skin over larger areas of the body than
lighter weight uniforms - yet their greater power of absorption
means that when they do touch the skin, they can 'wick away'
beads of sweat and absorb them in to the cloth. The downside of
heavier uniforms is that they can take longer to dry and are
harder to iron; a possible exception is the Shureido 'New Wave'
range of Gis which advertise 'no ironing required' and a fast
drying time due to the polyester / cotton blend. However it has
been reported that the 'no ironing' claim is misleading /
erroneous; ironing is required and unless the Gi is stretched to
shape before ironing it is difficult to manage. Aesthetically
heavyweight Gis do look very good.
Due to the nature of the canvas, they don't scrunch as easily as
more lightweight Gis and so require more care when transporting
them - they take up more room in your bag or require a separate
bag altogether! Examples of high quality heavyweight Gis include
the Hirota #163, the Tokaido Ultimate (SAW) and the Shureido
K-10.
Some prefer a lighter weight Gi for training and a heavier Gi
for more formal occasions such as assessment and competition. In
a perfect world a Gi would be versatile and suit both
circumstances.
Traditional / Standard Cut vs. Tournament
Cut
The now called 'traditional cut' uniforms have full length
sleeves and trouser legs whereas 'tournament cut' uniforms have
shorter sleeves and legs, perhaps 80% of full length.
Historically and confusingly the cut now referred to as
'tournament cut' was more traditional - it was the most commonly
worn. The reasoning behind tournament cut is that it is
supposedly easier to see the arms make contact with an opponent
in kumite, making it easier for the referee to score and more
likely that you will score the point; it may also give a greater
feeling of freedom to the limbs and it is more difficult for the
opponent to grab hold of the Gi. Tournament cut is also popular
for kata demonstration to show the position of the arms and legs
whereas someone using the Gi for general training may choose
traditional cut. Which cut to choose depends on what you are
most likely to use the Gi for.
Drawstrings or Elasticized Waist
Gi pants come with different types of waist fastening. Some are
elasticized - which are easier to remove (useful for going to
the toilet or dressing / undressing quickly!) but if too tight
may affect breathing - though this is debatable; the effect may
be negligible and insignificant. Some use the more traditional
drawstrings which can be adjusted to suit but are more
time-consuming to fasten and unfasten; they are less likely to
affect breathing, however and can reduce the likelihood of the
pants being pulled down, particularly important during grappling
/ kumite. Some pants have both elastic and drawstring on the
waist which means they are time-consuming to fasten and may
affect breathing but tightness may be adjusted according to
preference. The jacket of the uniform covers the fastening so
this will not be visible to others and is simply a matter of
preference.
Specific Brands
It would be difficult to dispute that the top 3 brands are
Hirota, Shureido and Tokaido (in no particular order). These are
the most popular brands, particularly with high level
instructors and offer good quality and consistency of
manufacture. Other popular brands include Kamikaze (now branded
as Tokon in the U.S. and Kaiten in the U.K), Ronin, Century,
Blitz and Adidas.
Color, Markings and Embroidery
The traditional color is pure white with no markings; white is
most widely available. Some white Japanese cottons give a bluish
hue / tint to the canvas which lasts varying amounts of time
dependent on washing.
Color and markings are in a certain respect a taste preference,
though some clubs favor one color over another and request that
their students wear the same. It does help to fit in to one
particular club and can serve as an identifier as with any
uniform to indicate that that person is a member of a particular
club. It could be said that one should be wary of the importance
an instructor places on color and markings - unusual styles are
sometimes synonymous with fake instructors and rare / invented /
hybrid styles of karate.
The second most popular color after white is black, though Gis
are available in many different colors and with many different
markings; obviously the color has no bearing on ability.
Embroidery can often be done on request at the time of ordering
the Gi; the Karateka's name or the name of their club in
Japanese lettering are popular choices. This may also be done
independently though it is worth choosing a reputable company to
do this as it is quite expensive and will change the appearance
of your Gi; Japanese lettering would also be much more difficult
to order independently.
Adverts
When a Gi is purchased for a club or competitor by a
company, it is common for the company to include some
advertising on the Gi. Some may feel this detracts from the
appearance of the Gi and is non-traditional, but it does not
affect skill and is quite commonplace in competition.
Badges are often worn (which may be sewn on to the Gi) when a
karateka is representing a club or organization.
All manufacturers generally place a small badge or tag somewhere
on the outside of the jacket and / or pants - this only serves
as advertising when the Gi is viewed up close as it is not
normally noticeable nor legible from a distance. Embroidery on
these badges should be done before they are placed on the Gi so
that the threads do not show on the reverse of the Gi fabric (Hirota,
Shureido and Tokaido all include embroidered badges done in this
way).
Snap
This is an aesthetic property of a Gi which is unnecessary when
karate is viewed as a tool of self defense to be used only when
necessary. It appeals to the vanity of some Karateka yet it does
have some useful purpose; whilst the presence of the snap does
not indicate that the technique was performed correctly, often a
well executed technique will produce the snap as a result,
providing some form of affirmation of success. It is therefore a
popular feature of a uniform when performing kata /
demonstrations of basics - well executed techniques accompanied
by a snapping sound may contribute to the overall impression
given to the judge.
Snap is achieved by multiple rows of stitching on the
extremities of the limb parts of the uniform, stiff / heavy
canvas and sometimes by the use of starch (which increases the
stiffness of the material and adds to its weight). It really is
no substitute for good technique.
Washing
The amount of washing your Gi will require depends on training
intensity / duration and how sweaty you are! The hems and
particularly the collar and cuffs pick up grime from your skin
quite quickly and regular washing helps to reduce this. Yellow
sweat marks may also be removed by washing. To reduce shrinkage,
particularly with pure cotton Gis, a low temperature setting
should be used; the Gi should obviously be washed only with
other pure white items to avoid color transfer. Damage may be
caused by fast spin cycles, chlorinated bleaches (which damage
fibers and can cause the off-white cotton to start looking grey
- mild detergents should be used), fabric conditioners (which
clog pores in the cotton causing retention of grime) and tumble
drying (Gis should be hang-dried away from the sun, which causes
bleaching).
Sport Gis
Referring to Gis suitable for competition. Examples are
found in the Adidas range with properties tailored to suit.
WKF Approval
If you are not going to be participating in WKF-related events
or under affiliated organizations, this does not matter.
Generosity of Cut
More material in the right places is less likely to restrict
movement.
Expense
Considering how long a good Gi or belt will last, possibly for
the duration of your karate career, the investment over time is
small.
Other Factors
Each Gi will have its own idiosyncrasies - closure of the
jacket chest for example. Others include width of the drawstring
hem to make retrieving the string easier if necessary and for
ease of tying, presence and design of gussets for freedom of
movement, ventilation and reinforcement and presence of a double
inseam to avoid embarrassing exposure if the canvas tears.
Belts
The one belt a karateka keeps is his or her Blackbelt. Once they
have passed through the other colors, whatever they may be, and
the black belt is attained, it is then kept indefinitely for as
long as that person keeps training. The only difference in the
belt is the color: black belts are available as cheaply as any
other. Like a uniform though, a good black belt will last for a
long time; in fact, the degree of wear and tear of the belt can
be taken as a rough indicator of experience and training
frequency (appealing to vanity?). More expensive belts are
available in a range of materials, widths and lengths. The
central core of most belts is cotton, yet the outside material
varies; however some belts use a Hessian / Burlap core, a coarse
woven fabric made from jute or hemp; other cheaper brands use a
non-descript pellon (any non-woven fabric interfacing designed
to give shape and support). Whether the outer cover is silk,
satin or cotton, there is not necessarily any difference in the
inner cotton core, so the wear of this core will be very similar
- though some manufacturers offer the choice of hard or soft
cotton e.g. Eosin Panther.
Belt Material
Cotton
Cheap cotton belts will last a good number of years for the
average person. There are higher quality cotton belts (such as
the Hirota belts which advertise 'Yohachi' high quality cotton)
which have greater durability. These belts are dyed throughout
so a cotton black belt will retain its color for the life of the
belt but will fade on washing; signs of wear are much less
obvious than with a satin or silk belt. Brushed cotton is also
available.
Silk
Silk belts, available from Tokaido, are more expensive than
cotton and satin and arguably look better (unimportant for
training purposes). They have a silk outer and a cotton core and
tend to show wear much more quickly than cotton belts; heavily
used belts on experienced instructors are often faded to white
and frayed / stringy. Initially these are more difficult to tie
than cotton belts due to their stiffness and the lack of
friction with the outer surface against itself, and so the knots
come undone more easily. However over time they become easier to
tie once the belt is broken in.
Satin
Similar in price to cotton yet with a satin outer cover.
Like silk, they show wear more quickly; the threads are delicate
and more liable to snag.
Cotton/Polyester Blend
Some cheaper belts use cotton/polyester blend.
Belt Width
Different widths are available - generally 1.5 to 3 inches in
0.25 inch increments.
The width is simply preference but will affect appearance, the
ease of knot tying and the ability to hold the knot.
Belt Lengths
Belts of lengths between 280cm-350cm are readily available;
longer belts may be ordered on request for those with a larger
waist. As a general rule the required length is that which would
pass round the waist 3 times; a small amount of shrinkage should
be allowed for.
Below is a useful conversion table between centimeters and
inches; the belt should wrap round your waist twice and leave
plenty material to tie a knot.
Centimeters |
Inches |
280cm | 110.24 |
285cm | 112.20 |
290cm | 114.17 |
295cm | 116.14 |
300cm | 118.11 |
305cm | 120.08 |
310cm | 122.05 |
315cm | 124.02 |
320cm | 125.98 |
325cm | 127.95 |
330cm | 129.92 |
335cm | 131.89 |
340cm | 133.86 |
345cm | 135.83 |
350cm | 137.80 |
It is worth noting that some manufacturers use arbitrary size charts to indicate the length of the belt.
Belt Stitching
Most belts have 8 lines of stitching running along the
length of the belt to stop it separating / pocketing. Some
cheaper ones have just 6. Black belts usually have 10 to 14
lines of stitching right through the belt and may be wider to
accommodate this.
Belt Embroidery
Embroidery on a belt should be chosen wisely. A good belt is
intended to stay with you for life - if you chose to add the
name of your karate club, you would need to change belts if you
moved house or the club folded.
As with many other aspects of a karate uniform, belt embroidery
can also vary in quality. Some manufacturers embroider the belts
through the belt, such that the intended lettering is seen on
one side but on the other side of the belt the lettering is
reversed, giving a good finish on one side but a tacky
unreadable finish on the reverse. Some embroider through the
belt but ensure that the thread on the reverse side matches the
color of the belt. Others such as Tokaido, Shureido and Hirota
embroider the outer cover before enclosing the core so that no
stitching shows through to the reverse side of the belt. Choose
the manufacturer carefully when purchasing an expensive belt if
you are intending to request embroidery.
Belt Washing and Drying
Hand washing / soaking and hang-drying of the belt will prolong
its life. A quick wipe for satin / silk belts may suffice and
perhaps the occasional wash. Cotton belts may tolerate machine
washing at cold temperatures (to avoid color running) but faster
spin cycles may lead to more rapid wear. Washing the belt alone
is preferable although it may be placed in with other similar
colors.
Infrequent washing is all that is required - depending on the
local climate, training intensity and duration and how much you
sweat as an individual. As with your Gi, use mild
non-chlorinated detergents to avoid damaging the fibers and
avoid drying in the sun (causes bleaching). Clearly many of
these tips are common sense and applicable to both the Gi and
the belt in order to prolong life.
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