The Karate Uniform: Gi


Shortly after starting to learn Karate, the new student will want to purchase the appropriate Karate uniform (Gi) and look like everyone else in the class.

The Gi is the traditional uniform of Karate, and its main purpose lies in its functionality. This applies to all of the Japanese and Okinawan Karate styles. Judo uniforms are also called Gi.

Why wear a Gi in Karate?

A Gi has the advantage that it is very robust and comfortable at the same time. It will survive a substational amount of pulling, tearing and contact with the ground to a degree that other type of clothing cannot handle. Typically a Karate Gi comes with quite short sleeves and pants, so that you don't get caught with your finger or trip over yourself. A Gi allows you great freedom of motion, which is required as in Karate you'll kick and punch with both speed and power.

For a Karate beginner, wearing a Gi also has a psychological effect, as it makes you feel more "real" when you wear the Gi, and you also feel as if you fit in better with all the other Gi-wearing students.

There are several types of Karate Uniforms available, from light-weight to heavy-weight that suit different styles, climatic conditions and body weight. In general, most Karate schools and clubs (Dojos) allow any type of white Gi but require you to attach their particular badge on the Gi.

A typical Karate Gi is made of three parts. The jacket, pants and belt.

How to choose a Karate Gi:

The simplest way to get your new Karate uniform (Gi) is to ask your instructor. Most Karate schools (Dojos) have a supplier who looks after their equipment requirements and provides them with uniforms at a discount that is passed on to the student.

Some schools insist you purchase your Karate Gi through them and will not let you wear any other type of uniform. Thus it is very important to check with your instructor before purchasing a uniform by yourself.

Your instructor will probably be able to take one look at you and tell you exactly what size Gi you require and be able to have it ready for you to wear at your next class.

Some Karate schools carry stock of the uniforms they wear so you may be able to have your new Gi the very first day you begin your martial arts journey.

Uniform sizes / Gi sizes:

Apart from the obvious requirement of choosing the uniform which your particular dojo wears, you need to get the right size to fit you.

Most uniform manufacturers use a size chart that corresponds numbers to height. However, this size system varies depending on manufacturer, country and origin. For example, Karate uniforms made for the American and Australian market are usually larger, whereas those made for the Asian market like Japan and Korea are slightly smaller, which is especially noticeable in the sleeve and pants length.

Typical Size Chart

Size # height/cm height/ft
00 120 cm 4'
0 130 4'4"
1 140 4'7"
2 150 4'11"
3 160 5'3"
4 170 5'7"
5 180 5'11"
6 190 6'3"
7 200 6'7'

Here is a more accurate Size Chart

SIZE CHART LIGHT WEIGHT KARATE DOJIS
SIZE # HEIGHT
 INCH
HEIGHT
 CM.
000/110            3' 6'' 106
00/140 3' 6''    to 3' 10'' 106 to 117
0/130 3' 10''  to 4' 1'' 117 to 125
1/140 4' 1''   to 4' 4'' 125 to 132
2/150 4' 4''   to 4' 7'' 132 to 140
3/160 4' 7''   to 4' 11'' 140 to 150
4/170 4' 11'' to 5' 4'' 150 to 163
5/180 5' 4''   to 5' 8'' 163 to 173
6/190 5' 8''   to 6' 0'' 173 to 183
7/200 6' 0''   to 6' 4'' 183 to 193
     
SIZE CHART MIDDLE WEIGHT KARATE DOJIS
SIZE #0 HEIGHT
 INCH
HEIGHT
 CM.
000/110            3' 6'' 106
00/120 3' 6''   to 3' 10'' 106 to 117
0/130 3' 10'' to 4' 1'' 117 to 125
1/140 4' 1''   to 4' 4'' 125 to 132
2/150 4' 4''   to 4' 7'' 132 to 140
3/160 4' 7''   to 4' 11'' 140 to 150
4/170 4' 11'' to 5' 4'' 150 to 163
5/180 5' 4''   to 5' 8'' 163 to 173
6/190 5' 8''   to 6' 0'' 173 to 183
7/200 6' 0''   to 6' 4'' 183 to 193
8/210 6.4' & over 193 & over
     
SIZE CHART HEAVY WEIGHT KARATE DOJIS
SIZE HEIGHT
 INCH
HEIGHT
 CM.
0/130 3' 10''  to 4' 1'' 117 to 125
1/140 4' 1''   to 4' 4'' 125 to 132
2/150 4' 4''   to 4' 7'' 132 to 140
3/160 4' 7''   to 4' 11'' 140 to 150
4/170 4' 11'' to 5' 4'' 150 to 163
5/180 5' 4''   to 5' 8'' 163 to 173
6/190 5' 8''   to 6' 0'' 173 to 183
7/200 6' 0''   to 6' 4'' 183 to 193
8/210 6.4' & over 193 & over

 

 Uniform Sizing Chart

SIZE HEIGHT WEIGHT SIZE REF.
000 3'-6" - 4'-0" 40 lbs. Child 6-10
00 4'-0" - 4'-4" 40 - 60 lbs. Child 10-12
0 4'-4" - 4'-6" 60 - 85 lbs. Child 12-14
1 4'-6" - 5'-0" 85 - 100 lbs. Adult S
2 5'-0" - 5'-3" 100 - 130 lbs. Adult M
3 5'-3" - 5'-7" 130 - 160 lbs.  Adult L 
4 5'-7" - 6'0" 160 - 190 lbs.   Adult XL
5 6'-0" - 6'-4" 190 - 250 lbs.  Adult 2XL 
6 6'-4" - 6'-8" 250 - 280 lbs.  Adult 3XL
7 6'-8" - 7'-2" 280 - 310 lbs. Adult 4XL

 

KARATE UNIFORM SPECIFICATIONS

PANTS

Size D E F
000 32 31 16
00 33 31 17
0 33.5 32.5 18
1 35 34 18
2 36.5 36 19
3 40 39 20
4 42 41 21
5 46 44.5 22.5
6 47.5 47.5 23
7 49.5 49.5 24

JACKET

Size A B C
000 43 22 19
00 44 23 20
0 49 23.5 22
1 54 25 22.5
2 55.5 27 23.5
3 61 29 24.5
4 65 30.5 25
5 66 33.5 26.5
6 72 36 28
7 74 37 29.5

Chart specifications are in inches

 

 

Fabric and colors of Karate uniforms

Karate uniforms (Gi) are usually made of cotton or a mix of cotton and polyester (sometimes referred to as "polycotton"). There are also heavy weight uniforms made from canvas and heavy drill cotton. The typical Karate Gi is white.

Nowadays Karate uniforms also come in a wide variety of colors. Other than the white Gi that traditional Karate styles prefer, you will find Karate uniforms from yellow, blue, red, black and probably any other color you can think of. In Kyokushin Karate we use the traditional White color Karate uniform. It is not allowed to use any other color than white in Kyokushin Karate.

Karate uniforms for Teachers

Some manufacturers now also have special uniforms for grand masters and your "everyday master", that come with extra trimmings such as gold embossing on the jacket and pants. Some uniforms have black piping on the V of the jacket or stripes down the side of the pants. Black belt karatekas can show their sense of fashion and grandeur with extra wide black belts with gold embroidery and gold stripes along the belt. These are available with as many gold stripes as the length of the belt and the size of the ego requires.

Karate Gi: Get the Perfect Look and Sound

In many Karate styles, higher grade students (mostly black belts) often prefer to wear heavier uniforms which are made of heavy drill cotton or canvas. These uniforms last longer as they do not tear as easily, they often look better and also you get more of a "snap" sound when punching and kicking.

Some tournament competitors, especially in Kata tournaments, are also aware of the show-effect of executing kicks and punches with an audible "snap". Thus, a common practice is to starch the Gi, in particular the ends of the sleeves from the elbow down and the pants from the knee down. You'll be one noisy Karateka in no time, and all your techniques will sound extra impressive!

Tournament competitors also favor longer jackets and belts to further their chances of impressing the judges. The idea is that when they are performing a low stance, where extra points are given for being extra low (eg. shiko dachi), the longer belt and jacket give the appearance of being lower to the ground.

Some styles of Karate, particularly the ones of Okinawan origin, often prefer to have their pants and sleeves shorter. In regular training these styles include a fair amount of close quarter partner work and long sleeves and pants would simply get in the way.

Karate Uniform Care: Washing Tips

The incredible shrinking Gi:

Most Karate uniforms will shrink considerably when washed in hot water, especially those made from all cotton. Although the initial shrinking during the first wash/dry cycle is by far the greatest, it is in general recommended to wash your uniform in cold water as this greatly reduces the shrinking. Care must also be taken during the drying step. Tumble drying can cause uniforms to shrink to a point where it will no longer fit.

Bleaching of the Gi for the perfect white:

Be careful with the use of any type of bleach when washing your uniform. Over time, bleaching can severely weaken the uniform material, causing it to rip easily. Repeated bleaching may even cause small holes to appear in your uniform. Bleaching will also adversely affect the usually colorful badge that indicates your style and dojo.

Tip: Use removable Velcro-badges:

If you do require to bleach your uniform from time to time, you should consider to use Velcro to attach any badges you have on your uniform. That way you can simply remove the badge when washing or bleaching your Gi and keep the badges looking brand new. When visiting or training at a school of a different style to your own, it is proper etiquette to remove any of your style's badges. Velcro badges and patches come handy in this situation too!

Ironing of the Gi:

Most cotton and canvas uniforms, when washed in a washing machine on the drip-dry cycle, can be hung on the line without spin drying. This may in fact make ironing unnecessary. Just flatten the wet Gi with your hands once it's on the clothes line to remove the largest folds and wrinkles and it will look very smooth when dry. If you still prefer to iron, it will iron much easier when it is still slightly wet.

horizontal rule

 

horizontal rule

Below you will find an intensive research done by Mr. Greg Lawton on the Karate Uniform. This was added for those students who wish to learn more about this topic.

What's in a Karate Uniform?
Article by Greg Lawton


If you're going to be doing karate for a long time, a good quality Gi is a good investment. However how do you define 'good quality'? There are a surprising number of variables when choosing a karate uniform which can affect whether if it right for you. Most of them the average person probably won't think twice about - there's nothing wrong with going to the nearest sports shop, finding the right one for your height and wearing it for a while to see how it feels, but if you want one to last a while which you enjoy wearing, it's worth weighing a few things up.


Terms
Gi, Karategi, Karatedogi or uniform may be used. The term 'Gi' is less correct without a prefix but is used in generically in this article as the preference for terminology varies. Dogi refers to Gis in general and not necessarily those used exclusively for karate.


Sizing
The most basic aspect of Gi sizing is the height in cm (used for European Gis), though sizing is also dependent on weight and other varying dimensions. Gis in Japan are given a number instead of a height measurement; the numbers correspond to the approximate heights shown in the table below. These numbers may be important if ordering from a Japanese source. Note these sizes also depend on the manufacturer and in some cases the cut! When tournament cut Gis were purchased from some Japanese manufacturers the quoted size was 1/2 to 1 sizes greater than the traditional cut, e.g. a person of 180cm height might order a size 5 in the traditional cut but a size 5.5 for the tournament cut. This is now being phased out.


Care must also be taken because the Gi can shrink, particularly after hot or repeated washing, and Gis from different manufacturers shrink to different extents. It is common to buy a slightly oversized Gi to allow for shrinkage. Shureido give the size after shrinkage because they shrink the material themselves to make sizing easier for the customer, although there may still be a small percentage of additional shrinkage. It is worth checking whether the manufacturer's size refers to pre- or post- shrinkage for that particular Gi and whether anyone else you know, or on the internet, can tell you what degree of shrinkage to expect.


Here is a sample chart showing conversion between the Japanese size and the corresponding approximate height of the individual.
 

Japanese Gi Size

Height (cm)

Approximate Height (Feet / Inches)

000

110

3ft 7ins

00

120

3ft 11ins

0

130

4ft 3ins

0.5

135

4ft 5ins

1

140

4ft 7ins

1.5

145

4ft 9ins

2

150

4ft 11ins

2.5

155

5ft 1ins

3

160

5ft 3ins

3.5

165

5ft 5ins

4

170

5ft 7ins

4.5

175

5ft 9ins

5

180

5ft 11ins

5.5

185

6ft 1ins

6

190

6ft 3ins

6.5

195

6ft 5ins

7

200

6ft 7ins

7.5

205

6ft 9ins

8

210

6ft 11ins


For those with non-standard body dimensions, jackets and pants may be purchased separately. Many of the top manufacturers offer size customization, with many different modifiable dimensions which may be specified upon ordering. For the trousers you may specify length, waist circumference, diameter / circumference at the top and bottom of the leg and the distance between the top of the pants and where they split to the legs. For the jacket the height, length of the arms, length of the central part of the jacket and the circumference / diameter of the arm piece near the shoulder and wrists may be varied. Customization obviously adds to the cost of the Gi.


Material
Cheaper Gis often use cheap polyester / cotton blends. More expensive Gis are manufactured from traditional pure cotton which is more likely to shrink in the wash and more likely to crease than a cheap blended material but absorbs more sweat is stiffer, holding away from the body so as to be more breathable. Some Gis use brushed cotton for softness / comfort. There are high-end polyester cotton blends such as the Shureido New-Wave line of Gis designed to give the positive properties of both - less need for ironing, less shrinkage, wicks away sweat as it is absorbent and breathes well due to holding itself away from the body.


Weight
The weight of a Gi is given in either in ounces or as a number of the canvas 'numbered duck' (it is more common to use this in Japan and will be encountered if ordering from a Japanese manufacturer). 'Canvas' and 'duck' are often used interchangeably; 'duck' is derived from the Dutch 'doek' referring to a canvas used for sailors' clothing.


The use of ounces as a weight indicator stems from industry weights given to duck cotton. It refers to the weight of the cloth per square yard and does not indicate as much about the quality of the material as the duck number. A 10 ounce canvas is not the same as a #10 canvas. When the rating is given in ounces it normally refers to 'single fill' canvas - single fibers used in the threads of the horizontal axis of the weave, which are thicker fibers than those used in a #10 canvas.


A Gi often has duck #10 or #11 (though in the industry #11 is rarely used nowadays). To understand what the numbers mean requires detailed explanation. If a piece of cloth measuring 36 inches x 22 inches weighs less than 19 ounces it is called numbered duck. The duck number is calculated by subtracting the weight of the 36 x 22 inch piece, in ounces, from 19. Hence the numbers are inversely proportional to the weight - a heavier piece of cloth has a lower number.


In addition to the weight of cloth per square yard, the numbers are also indicative of the likely thread count of that piece of material (more threads in the 'warp' or vertical axis of the cloth and more threads in the 'fill' or horizontal axis of the cloth). The thread count is the number of threads used per square inch - higher numbered canvasses have a higher thread count - more and finer threads per square inch which because the threads are closer together, means you are less likely to feel them against the skin - increasing the comfort, suppleness and durability of the material. The greater thread count is achieved by using finer fibers.


Finally the yarn count is also roughly indicated by the canvas number. Yarn count in real terms is the number of threads stretching 840 yards needed to give 1 English lb of weight. For English cotton - if the yarn count is 1 then a thread strand stretching 840 yards would be 1 lb in weight. If the yarn count is 2 then two threads stretching 840 yards would be 1 lb in weight - hence the threads / yarns must be finer; the higher the number, the more fibers stretching 840 yards would be needed to give 1lb weight.


It is an indicator of thickness of single threads. Higher yarn counts indicate finer threads and fewer fibers wound together to form a single thread. Higher canvas numbers have a higher yarn count and thus use finer threads.


Yarn count is quoted as x/y.


X is a number which indicates how fine each fiber of the material is, a higher number means a finer fiber was used.


Y is the number of individual fibers wound / plied together. 2 fibers plied together becomes a single yarn, the yarn would be twice as thick but for 1 lb of the new yarn, you would only need half the length.


Note that the first number, X, refers to the individual fibers in the yarn and not the resultant plied yarn e.g. 100/2 is 2 fibers with yarn count 100 being plied together, resulting in a thread with a 50 count.


Note also that the unit length (i.e. 840 yards for English cotton) varies for different fibers and spinning systems.


So a higher number means a lighter garment per square yard, a higher thread count and finer threads.
 

Duck Number

Weight of a 36 x 22 inch Piece

Weight / Sq. yard

Example Standard Construction Thread / Sq. Inch

Example Standard Construction Thread Size

Examples of Uses of this Canvas with this Duck Number

#12

7oz

11.45oz

44 x 32

10/2 x 10/2

Tote bags, artist canvas, draperies, laminations

#11

8oz

13.09oz

 

 

Some karate Gis

#10

9oz

14.73oz

42 x 28

7/2 x 7/2

Tote bags, luggage & similar applications, shoe uppers, military applications, shower curtains, some karate Gis

#9

10oz

16.36oz

 

 

 

#8

11oz

18.00oz

36 x 23

7/3 x 8/3

Director's chair, duffle bags, golf bags, clothes bags

#7

12oz

19.64oz

 

 

 

#6

13oz

21.27oz

36 x 26

7/3 x 7/3

Machine covers, gun covers, mail bags, boxing ring covers, horse blankets

#5

14oz

22.91oz

 

 

 

#4

15oz

24.54oz

26 x 18

7/5 x 7/5

Cattle feed bags, tool bags, Saddle bags, military equipment covers, sea bags, large boat covers

#3

16oz

26.18oz

 

 

 

#2

17oz

27.82oz

 

 

Hatch paulins

#1

18oz

29.45oz

30 x 20

7/5 x 7/5

Transformer covers, farm equipment covers, hammocks, sand bags


Sources:

http://www.nizamcanvas.com/fabrics/canvas1.htm 

http://www.nizamcanvas.com/fabrics/canvasapplication.htm 

http://www.sizes.com/materls/duck.htm 


Lightweight Gis
Perhaps 6oz or 8oz, these are often the least expensive (though not always - the type of material, design etc. also has a bearing - for example the Shureido Mugen is a very lightweight and thin Gi used for Kumite and is one the most expensive uniforms of the Shureido brand. Note this Gi is available in both traditional and tournament cut; the traditional cut is named Mugen Fighter by some vendors but is the same Gi). It is not uncommon to have a number of karate Gis and lightweight ones are often chosen for Kumite competition for freedom of movement. Other examples of lightweight high-quality Kumite Gis include the Tokaido NST and the Hirota Pinack.


These will not last as long as heavier Gis, the rate of wear being dependent on the amount and content of training - particularly physical contact and grappling. They tear more easily and wear thin from prolonged use.


In terms of warmth, the cheaper polyester / cotton blends which soak up little sweat, and despite the lighter weight can leave you feeling hot, uncomfortable (as the Gi sticks to the body) and dripping with sweat. More expensive Gis are often pure cotton or more advanced polyester / cotton blends which breathe well (i.e. stay away from the body) and allow sweat to evaporate quickly. On the positive side, they are easier to iron and more resistant to creasing than pure cotton.


Cheaper lightweight uniforms are ideal for beginners or those who are unsure how long they will continue with karate; the more expensive ones are suitable for kumite competition.


Medium Weight Gis
Maybe 10oz or 12oz, these are more resistant to use than a lightweight Gi and tend to last longer. Although if worn when standing stationary they would be slightly warmer due to the thicker material, when training they soak up more sweat and can leave you feeling cooler. The Shureido NW-3 is an example of a medium weight Gi but in terms of actual weight but sits on the body like a heavyweight.


Heavyweight Gis
Maybe 14oz, 16oz or even higher, these are often marketed as 'Ultimate' karate uniforms (as an example) for the dedicated / serious karateka. They are more expensive and this transparent marketing trick is designed to appeal to vain karate students who subconsciously or otherwise believe that the uniform will make them perform better. That said, a good heavyweight Gi can last a long time and is worth choosing carefully. They absorb a lot of sweat and due to the stiffness of the cloth hold themselves away from the skin over larger areas of the body than lighter weight uniforms - yet their greater power of absorption means that when they do touch the skin, they can 'wick away' beads of sweat and absorb them in to the cloth. The downside of heavier uniforms is that they can take longer to dry and are harder to iron; a possible exception is the Shureido 'New Wave' range of Gis which advertise 'no ironing required' and a fast drying time due to the polyester / cotton blend. However it has been reported that the 'no ironing' claim is misleading / erroneous; ironing is required and unless the Gi is stretched to shape before ironing it is difficult to manage. Aesthetically heavyweight Gis do look very good.


Due to the nature of the canvas, they don't scrunch as easily as more lightweight Gis and so require more care when transporting them - they take up more room in your bag or require a separate bag altogether! Examples of high quality heavyweight Gis include the Hirota #163, the Tokaido Ultimate (SAW) and the Shureido K-10.


Some prefer a lighter weight Gi for training and a heavier Gi for more formal occasions such as assessment and competition. In a perfect world a Gi would be versatile and suit both circumstances.


Traditional / Standard Cut vs. Tournament Cut
The now called 'traditional cut' uniforms have full length sleeves and trouser legs whereas 'tournament cut' uniforms have shorter sleeves and legs, perhaps 80% of full length. Historically and confusingly the cut now referred to as 'tournament cut' was more traditional - it was the most commonly worn. The reasoning behind tournament cut is that it is supposedly easier to see the arms make contact with an opponent in kumite, making it easier for the referee to score and more likely that you will score the point; it may also give a greater feeling of freedom to the limbs and it is more difficult for the opponent to grab hold of the Gi. Tournament cut is also popular for kata demonstration to show the position of the arms and legs whereas someone using the Gi for general training may choose traditional cut. Which cut to choose depends on what you are most likely to use the Gi for.


Drawstrings or Elasticized Waist
Gi pants come with different types of waist fastening. Some are elasticized - which are easier to remove (useful for going to the toilet or dressing / undressing quickly!) but if too tight may affect breathing - though this is debatable; the effect may be negligible and insignificant. Some use the more traditional drawstrings which can be adjusted to suit but are more time-consuming to fasten and unfasten; they are less likely to affect breathing, however and can reduce the likelihood of the pants being pulled down, particularly important during grappling / kumite. Some pants have both elastic and drawstring on the waist which means they are time-consuming to fasten and may affect breathing but tightness may be adjusted according to preference. The jacket of the uniform covers the fastening so this will not be visible to others and is simply a matter of preference.


Specific Brands
It would be difficult to dispute that the top 3 brands are Hirota, Shureido and Tokaido (in no particular order). These are the most popular brands, particularly with high level instructors and offer good quality and consistency of manufacture. Other popular brands include Kamikaze (now branded as Tokon in the U.S. and Kaiten in the U.K), Ronin, Century, Blitz and Adidas.


Color, Markings and Embroidery
The traditional color is pure white with no markings; white is most widely available. Some white Japanese cottons give a bluish hue / tint to the canvas which lasts varying amounts of time dependent on washing.


Color and markings are in a certain respect a taste preference, though some clubs favor one color over another and request that their students wear the same. It does help to fit in to one particular club and can serve as an identifier as with any uniform to indicate that that person is a member of a particular club. It could be said that one should be wary of the importance an instructor places on color and markings - unusual styles are sometimes synonymous with fake instructors and rare / invented / hybrid styles of karate.


The second most popular color after white is black, though Gis are available in many different colors and with many different markings; obviously the color has no bearing on ability.


Embroidery can often be done on request at the time of ordering the Gi; the Karateka's name or the name of their club in Japanese lettering are popular choices. This may also be done independently though it is worth choosing a reputable company to do this as it is quite expensive and will change the appearance of your Gi; Japanese lettering would also be much more difficult to order independently.


Adverts
When a Gi is purchased for a club or competitor by a company, it is common for the company to include some advertising on the Gi. Some may feel this detracts from the appearance of the Gi and is non-traditional, but it does not affect skill and is quite commonplace in competition.


Badges are often worn (which may be sewn on to the Gi) when a karateka is representing a club or organization.


All manufacturers generally place a small badge or tag somewhere on the outside of the jacket and / or pants - this only serves as advertising when the Gi is viewed up close as it is not normally noticeable nor legible from a distance. Embroidery on these badges should be done before they are placed on the Gi so that the threads do not show on the reverse of the Gi fabric (Hirota, Shureido and Tokaido all include embroidered badges done in this way).


Snap
This is an aesthetic property of a Gi which is unnecessary when karate is viewed as a tool of self defense to be used only when necessary. It appeals to the vanity of some Karateka yet it does have some useful purpose; whilst the presence of the snap does not indicate that the technique was performed correctly, often a well executed technique will produce the snap as a result, providing some form of affirmation of success. It is therefore a popular feature of a uniform when performing kata / demonstrations of basics - well executed techniques accompanied by a snapping sound may contribute to the overall impression given to the judge.


Snap is achieved by multiple rows of stitching on the extremities of the limb parts of the uniform, stiff / heavy canvas and sometimes by the use of starch (which increases the stiffness of the material and adds to its weight). It really is no substitute for good technique.


Washing
The amount of washing your Gi will require depends on training intensity / duration and how sweaty you are! The hems and particularly the collar and cuffs pick up grime from your skin quite quickly and regular washing helps to reduce this. Yellow sweat marks may also be removed by washing. To reduce shrinkage, particularly with pure cotton Gis, a low temperature setting should be used; the Gi should obviously be washed only with other pure white items to avoid color transfer. Damage may be caused by fast spin cycles, chlorinated bleaches (which damage fibers and can cause the off-white cotton to start looking grey - mild detergents should be used), fabric conditioners (which clog pores in the cotton causing retention of grime) and tumble drying (Gis should be hang-dried away from the sun, which causes bleaching).


Sport Gis
Referring to Gis suitable for competition. Examples are found in the Adidas range with properties tailored to suit.


WKF Approval
If you are not going to be participating in WKF-related events or under affiliated organizations, this does not matter.


Generosity of Cut
More material in the right places is less likely to restrict movement.


Expense
Considering how long a good Gi or belt will last, possibly for the duration of your karate career, the investment over time is small.


Other Factors
Each Gi will have its own idiosyncrasies - closure of the jacket chest for example. Others include width of the drawstring hem to make retrieving the string easier if necessary and for ease of tying, presence and design of gussets for freedom of movement, ventilation and reinforcement and presence of a double inseam to avoid embarrassing exposure if the canvas tears.


Belts
The one belt a karateka keeps is his or her Blackbelt. Once they have passed through the other colors, whatever they may be, and the black belt is attained, it is then kept indefinitely for as long as that person keeps training. The only difference in the belt is the color: black belts are available as cheaply as any other. Like a uniform though, a good black belt will last for a long time; in fact, the degree of wear and tear of the belt can be taken as a rough indicator of experience and training frequency (appealing to vanity?). More expensive belts are available in a range of materials, widths and lengths. The central core of most belts is cotton, yet the outside material varies; however some belts use a Hessian / Burlap core, a coarse woven fabric made from jute or hemp; other cheaper brands use a non-descript pellon (any non-woven fabric interfacing designed to give shape and support). Whether the outer cover is silk, satin or cotton, there is not necessarily any difference in the inner cotton core, so the wear of this core will be very similar - though some manufacturers offer the choice of hard or soft cotton e.g. Eosin Panther.


Belt Material
 

Cotton
Cheap cotton belts will last a good number of years for the average person. There are higher quality cotton belts (such as the Hirota belts which advertise 'Yohachi' high quality cotton) which have greater durability. These belts are dyed throughout so a cotton black belt will retain its color for the life of the belt but will fade on washing; signs of wear are much less obvious than with a satin or silk belt. Brushed cotton is also available.


Silk
Silk belts, available from Tokaido, are more expensive than cotton and satin and arguably look better (unimportant for training purposes). They have a silk outer and a cotton core and tend to show wear much more quickly than cotton belts; heavily used belts on experienced instructors are often faded to white and frayed / stringy. Initially these are more difficult to tie than cotton belts due to their stiffness and the lack of friction with the outer surface against itself, and so the knots come undone more easily. However over time they become easier to tie once the belt is broken in.


Satin
Similar in price to cotton yet with a satin outer cover. Like silk, they show wear more quickly; the threads are delicate and more liable to snag.


Cotton/Polyester Blend
Some cheaper belts use cotton/polyester blend.


Belt Width
Different widths are available - generally 1.5 to 3 inches in 0.25 inch increments.


The width is simply preference but will affect appearance, the ease of knot tying and the ability to hold the knot.


Belt Lengths
Belts of lengths between 280cm-350cm are readily available; longer belts may be ordered on request for those with a larger waist. As a general rule the required length is that which would pass round the waist 3 times; a small amount of shrinkage should be allowed for.


Below is a useful conversion table between centimeters and inches; the belt should wrap round your waist twice and leave plenty material to tie a knot.

Centimeters

Inches

280cm 110.24
285cm 112.20
290cm 114.17
295cm 116.14
300cm 118.11
305cm 120.08
310cm 122.05
315cm 124.02
320cm 125.98
325cm 127.95
330cm 129.92
335cm 131.89
340cm 133.86
345cm 135.83
350cm 137.80

It is worth noting that some manufacturers use arbitrary size charts to indicate the length of the belt.


Belt Stitching
Most belts have 8 lines of stitching running along the length of the belt to stop it separating / pocketing. Some cheaper ones have just 6. Black belts usually have 10 to 14 lines of stitching right through the belt and may be wider to accommodate this.


Belt Embroidery
Embroidery on a belt should be chosen wisely. A good belt is intended to stay with you for life - if you chose to add the name of your karate club, you would need to change belts if you moved house or the club folded.


As with many other aspects of a karate uniform, belt embroidery can also vary in quality. Some manufacturers embroider the belts through the belt, such that the intended lettering is seen on one side but on the other side of the belt the lettering is reversed, giving a good finish on one side but a tacky unreadable finish on the reverse. Some embroider through the belt but ensure that the thread on the reverse side matches the color of the belt. Others such as Tokaido, Shureido and Hirota embroider the outer cover before enclosing the core so that no stitching shows through to the reverse side of the belt. Choose the manufacturer carefully when purchasing an expensive belt if you are intending to request embroidery.


Belt Washing and Drying
Hand washing / soaking and hang-drying of the belt will prolong its life. A quick wipe for satin / silk belts may suffice and perhaps the occasional wash. Cotton belts may tolerate machine washing at cold temperatures (to avoid color running) but faster spin cycles may lead to more rapid wear. Washing the belt alone is preferable although it may be placed in with other similar colors.


Infrequent washing is all that is required - depending on the local climate, training intensity and duration and how much you sweat as an individual. As with your Gi, use mild non-chlorinated detergents to avoid damaging the fibers and avoid drying in the sun (causes bleaching). Clearly many of these tips are common sense and applicable to both the Gi and the belt in order to prolong life.

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